Ahtushi Deshpande's travelogue, "To the Land of
Snow" describes her trekking to Milam glacier with
Khem Nam as the guide and Laxmi who served as a
porter.
She started her travel with a 2424-hour journey in a
UP Roadways bus after which she was enthralled to
see the peaks of the Panchuli range. The four day trek
to the village of Milam was dotted with abandoned
Bhutia villages. On the fourth day they crossed Burfu
and Bilju before reaching Milam. On the sixthday, she
spent the day moseying in and out of their cave since
howling winds, clouds, bright sunshine and hail storms
chased each other throught the skies. For the next two
days adn night, they camped at Ragash Kund. The
summit of Mandayo could be seen on the opposite to
their camp and to her right the Nanda Pal glacier sloped
down. On their way to Suraj Kund, they hopped over
stones on landslides and treaded on the glacier rubble.
As they walked to the dead centre of the glacier, the
8080m icefall starting from the base of the Hardeoli and
Trishuli came to dull view. Then she tasted the water
from the twin ponds of Dudh and Suraj Kund.
The next morning, she returned to Milam. Three
kilometres from Milam she was transfixed seeing the
twin peaks of Nanda Devi main and Nanda Devi east.
Then the author along with the other two came back
to Munsiyari.